The Dead Walk. The growth of Tequila and Her Ancient Ancestor Pulque
While in the 80's Pulque's reputation was very low and went on to slide. 25 years ago, about 20 18 wheelers would come every couple of days to Xochimilco in southern Mexico City to supply pulque, yet over time the quantity is all the way down to one or two. Only five pulquerias continued to be in this location, where there had previously been18. It was very similar in almost all other areas of Mexico. Those pulquerias that were allowed to remain were small establishments, reselling a product made by little makers. A corporation that attempted to bottle and export pulque in the 1970s found that pulque continued fermenting in its cans, resulting in exploding cans. Eradicating your patrons will tequila hand grenades surely is not a correct means to warranty a brands survival.
Will pulque rise over again? Salvation may be on the way for the viscous, naturally carbonated fermented juice of the maguey cactus. The mystery, tale, and charisma of the still peddled over the counter is very appealing. Dished up in big glass jars described as flower pots, the spirit of the Aztecs is on the rise, sans sacrificial virgins. Has the 2012 Mayan Doomsday, and the "Every single thing that's old is brand-new" attitude circling the world brought about the ressurrecting of pulque? In the mega-metropolis of Mexico City,on a cozy Saturday afternoon, idle old-timers can be spotted slurping down flower pots of pulque with yuppie youth, and wide eyed tourists.
And the word is building. Tequila in all it's types, silver tequila, reposado tequila, anejo tequila and extra anejo tequila has young metropolitan hipsters so excited that everything that possibly hints of the fashionable spirit is in demand. 30 somethings have taken to the antique refreshment as a variety of old style, subversive returning to tequila root beginnings, and are getting their Azteca on in droves. Tequila is so incredibly hot that anything that touches it grabs attention. Currently the pulque that may be hottest is known as curado, or cured, with the agave ferment infused with fresh juices of strawberry or guava or celery. Just like a smoothie, with a kick.
Hip Mexicans, have begun to reach into their ethnic legacy for their modern "Old" beverage of choice from way back. According to a "Letter From Mexico City" in the Washington Post, the brand new incredibly hot tipple for twenty-somethings in Mexico City is pulque, a opaque alcoholic smoothy created from the fermented juice of the maguey. You might say, pulque is to tequila what beer is to whisky: frothier, older, and lower in alcohol. Its raw, fresh-brewed and rising in global popularity by the day.
Although, when Anthony Bourdain sampled pulque on his TV show No Reservations, he announced pulque as low brow hooch, calling it "as delicious and nutritious as Ryan Seacrest's love juice." - Yuck.
Pulque curado and the success of the narrative of pulque has re-vitalized and positively altered the persona of the pulqueria, a totally innovative, and old concept bar popping up in key cities almost everywhere, with very unique patrons than the poor country indian residents or Human Sacrificing Aztec Priests. The adjustments have breathe fresh life to pulque.
Peculiar that the rise of pulque correlates with the 2012 Mayan Doomsday. Maybe it's a sign. Beware, the dead walk. Hide your virgins.
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